THE KATHMANDU VALLEY

In the distant dawn of unrecorded time, so legend tells us, the valley of Kathmandu was a turquoise lake with a wondrous flaming lotus flowering on it. Manjushree, a patriarch saint from China, sliced the valley wall with his flaming sword of wisdom at Chovar and let the lake drain out. In the process of drainage, soil slid down from various sides and at the conflux of the newly formed valley emerged a self formed hillock "Swayambhu". The lotus was glowing atop the hillock where a great stupa was built to protect it from extinguishing.

IN AND AROUND THE VALLEY

Kathmandu is the Capital of Nepal. The city has been in existence from more than two thousand years. Legend has it that Kathmandu was named after the building in Durbar Square called the Kasthamandap, which is said to have been built from the trunk of a single tree. The Temple of the Living Goddess, 'Kumari', is also near the Kasthamandap and it is one of the main attractions for the tourists. Durbar Square, is a major historical place full of historical monuments. An early visit in the morning and a late stroll in the evening will amalgamate you to the Nepalese Hindu and Buddhist cultures and life styles.

Patan and Durbar Square
Patan, also known as Lalitpur, is the city of fine arts. Most of the people of the city are Buddhists. Krishna Mandir, Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, Kumbheshwar, Jagatnarayan and the Mahabouddha are the major temples of interest to be visited in Patan. You will be thrilled with an early visit in the morning and a late stroll in the evening which will amalgamate you to the Nepalese Hindu and Buddhist cultures and life styles.

Bhaktapur and Durbar Square
Bhaktapur, also known as Bhadgaon, is the "City of the Devotees". This city is a living museum and a world heritage site. Newari arts and architectural monuments glorifying the craftsmanship of the Malla regime can been seen in abundance in this ancient city. The Earthquake of 1934 A.D. destroyed more than four thousand houses and temples of historical importance, yet the city today still holds a lot of monuments. The major sightseeing places in Bhaktapur include the Durbar Square, the Golden Gate, Palace of the 55 Windows, the Bell of the Barking Dogs, Nyatapole Temple, Bhairavanath Temple, Dattatrya Temple and the Pujari Math. Not to miss is an early visit in the morning and a late stroll in the evening which will amalgamate you to the Nepalese Hindu and Buddhist cultures and life styles.

Bouddhanath
Bouddhanath Stupa is the biggest Stupa in Nepal and is located on flat land and encircled by houses and monasteries. This colossal Stupa, 36 meters high, is set on concentric ascending terraces in the powerful pattern of a Mandala. Around the base of this strikingly enormous and simple Stupa is a ring of 108 images of the Buddha and 147 insets containing prayer wheels.

Bungmati and Khokana
The twin villages of Bungmati and Khokana date from the 16th century and are located south of Kathmandu, down a rutty road dotted with Chaityas. Bungmati is the winter home of Lord Rato Machhendranath, the protector God of Patan. The shrine of Karya Binayak is located between the two villages. At Khokana ancient oil presses can be seen at work in village houses.

Budhanilkantha
Budhanilkantha is 9 km north of Kathmandu. In a small pond at the foot of the Shivapuri Hills lies the half-submerged massive black stone statue of the reclining Vishnu resting on a bed of snakes. Worshippers strew the sleeping Vishnu with offerings of flowers and rice. It is a monumental sculpture from the Lichhavi period.

Champa Devi
The hike to the top of Champa Devi (2,278m), the highest peak on the Chandragiri Ridge south west of Kirtipur, displays a panoramic view of the western part of the Kathmandu Valley, back dropped by the snow covered Himalayas. Either starting from Chovar or from Pharping the trail climbs steeply to join at a saddle close to the top. A Hindu shrine and a white Stupa mark the Champa Devi summit. Several return routes are possible. Staying close to the ridge continuing west, a trail descends from the second saddle north to Kirtipur. Another descends from the third saddle and reaches Kisipidi.

Chandeshwari
Chandeshwari shrine is located north of the sprawling trading town of Banepa. A track leads northeast past the town hospital to the temple on the bank of a forested gorge. The temple is dedicated to Goddess Parvati, whom they called upon to slay 'Chand', the most fearsome of the demons. It thus became known as Chandeshwari, "the slayer of Chand". The main attraction is a remarkable fresco of Bhairav, painted on the western wall of the main structure. The woodwork of the three-tiered temple are richly carved with the eight Astha Marikas, or "Mother goddesses" and eight Bhairavs.

Changunarayan
The city of Changunarayan is 18 kms east of Kathmandu and is accessed from behind Bhaktapur. Changunarayan is also a lavishly decorated two-tiered temple which was rebuilt after a fire in 1702. The earliest inscription in the Valley, dated 467 A.D., testifies to the considerable talents of the Licchavi King, Mandeva I, Nepal's first great historical figure. The temple stands in a spacious courtyard, littered with priceless stone sculptures from the 4th to 9th century A.D. (Licchavi period). This golden age of classical Newari art produced masterpieces that were entirely religious in character.

Chapagaon
A rough track to the south of the Kathmandu Valley winds steeply downhill, through intricately terraced fields of reddish brown soil to the ancient Lichhavi village of Lele, on through terraced mustard fields and bamboo groves to Chapagaon. An important tantric temple of Vajra Varahi is located here in a sacred grove of trees, built in 1665; however, the site is much older. Various naturally sculpted stones strewn about are regarded as images of Ganesh, Bhairav and the Ashta Matrika.

Chovar
Carved out on a hillside, the Chovar gorge is the only outlet for all the waters of the Kathmandu Valley. Legend has it that Manjushree, an ancient saint, cut the mountain with his magical sword to drain out the water from the Kathmandu Valley which was then just a lake. There is a small but picturesque temple of Adinath on the top of the hill with a magnificent view of the snow capped peaks. Just beyond the gorge is a temple of lord Ganesh. The main image of the shrine is a massive rock, naturally carved.

Dakshinkali
Dakshinkali is 45-minutes drive south from Kathmandu. Located in a dark valley at the confluence of two streams, the shrine of Dakshinkali is the most spectacular of all the Kali temples. Animal sacrifices are offered to this deity every Tuesdays and Saturdays signifying fertility and the procreative powers of the Female. Animals are presented to the priest who will ritually decapitate them with a khukuri knife and bathe the black stone image of Kali in blood.

Dhulikhel
Set on a hill top 30 kms east of Kathmandu lies the small resort town of Dhulikhel, enveloped in copper soiled terraces with magnificent views of the central Himalayan peaks. Dhulikhel is well known for its sunrise and sunset views. A number of day trails lead along the north ridge of the town where one can get a glimpse of Nepalese village life.

Godavari
Godavari lies 18 kms south of Kathmandu with its main attraction, the Royal Botanical Gardens. With its rushing streams and shady meadows it is a popular picnic spot. It also has a notable collection of orchids, cacti and ferns. A quiet path leads to the Godavari Kunda, a spring where the sacred water of the Godavari river pours from the mountains.

Kakani
The village of Kakani lies 29 kms north west of Kathmandu City. It is famous for its magnificent views of the sun setting over the north western Himalayan range; the Ganesh Himal massif, Gaurishankar (7,134 m), Choba Bhamare (6,016 m), Himalchuli (7,893 m), Annapurna (8,091 m). The drive to Kakani and back along the Trishuli Road is scenically rewarding with green forest and mountain grandeur on one side and fertile river flats and terraced hillside cultivation on the other.

Kirtipur
Perched on twin hillocks and clinging to a saddle about 5 kms south west of Kathmandu lies the village of Kirtipur. A long flight of steps leads up to Kirtipur from the valley floor and a motorable road goes part way up the hill. Steep paths link to the brick houses built on terraces. The villagers dressed in traditional costume work on ancient looms. The people are well known for their strength and valour. Many historical battles were fought and won by the inhabitants of Kirtipur.

Kopan Monastery
Kopan Monastery is a center of Mahayana Buddhism established in 1969 by two Lamas - Lama Thupten Zopa Rinpoche and Lama Thupten Yeshe. Since its inception, the center has been responsible for introducing thousands to Buddha's teachings through meditation courses, lectures and retreats.

Nagarkot
The tiny settlement of Nagarkot clings to a hilltop 36 kms east of Kathmandu at an altitude of 2,099 m. It is one of the best vantage points to view the peaks - from the Annapurnas to the Everest. The peaks seem no more than a day's walk away. It is also possible to do a day's hike from Nagarkot to Dhulikhel along the valley rim.

Nagarjun
Nagarjun, a prominent forested hill, west of Kathmandu topped with a Buddhist Stupa with superb views of Ganesh Himal, Langtang and the Kathmandu Valley. A dirt road winds to the top (2,096m) though a trek would take two hours. A return trail descends the southwest side of Nagarjun to Ichangu Narayan and reaches Kathmandu via a dirt road that eventually comes out behind Swayambhunath.

Namo Buddha
Namo Buddha, meaning "hail to the Buddha", is a sacred site where, according to a legend, the Buddha sacrificed his body to feed a starving tigress and her cubs. A carved stone slab at the main stupa depicts the moving story. A dirt road leads up to Namo Buddha from Dhulikhel. A trail descending south through a forest heading west up a long vale takes you 2 to 3 hours to reach Panauti.

Panauti
Located at the confluence of the Punyamati and Roshi Khola rivers, Panauti was once an important staging post on the Tibet trade route with pre-Lichhavi origins. The banks of the river are now crowded with temples, shrines and cremation ghats. Across the river lies the recently restored Brahmayani temple. The Indreshwar Mahadev temple is a 15th century Newari structure with exquisite woodcarvings especially on the roof struts.

Pashupatinath
It is situated 5 kms east of Kathmandu on the banks of the sacred Bagmati River. The temple of lord Shiva, Pashupatinath, is famous for its superb architecture. Entry into the temple is forbidden to the non-Hindus. The large gilded triple-roofed temple was built in 1696 A.D. The Bagmati River is lined with dharmasalas and cremation ghats. One of the most colorful is the women's festival of Teej when dressed in their finest red and gold saris hundreds of women, laughing and singing converge on Pashupatinath.

Phulchowki
The triple peaked hill of Phulchowki, the "flower-covered hill", is the highest in the valley at 2,762m. Lying 20 kms south east of Kathmandu, a road winds its way to the top is a small shrine built to the mother of the forest, Phulchowki Mai. The trail up to the top takes about 4 hours through lovely rhododendron and oak forest crossing the motorable road a couple of times. Breathtaking views of the white peaks from Himalchuli to the Everest embrace you from various vantage points. There is a trail connecting Phulchowki to Pharping on one side and Panauti on the other.

Sankhu
Hills surround the sleepy village of Sankhu, once on the trade route east to Helambu. Forests above the village hide an important temple of the tantric goddess, Bajra Jogini. A walk following the wide stone path north of the village and up the steps takes you to the temple, flanked with smaller shrines, stupas and statues.

Shivapuri
Shivapuri, at a height of 2,732m, grants you a 360 degree view of the Himalayas in the north and the Kathmandu valley in the south. The trail up to the Shivapuri hills leads through small farming villages and a protected forest of rhododendrons and orchids with little mountain streams running through it.

Swayambhunath
A top a green hillock west of Kathmandu stands the great stupa of Swayambhunath, a site which is over 2,500 years old. Constructed to specific rules each with a symbolic meaning, the stupa of Swayambhunath is a model of its kind. Its dazzling white hemispherical mound represent the ladder to nirvana, itself symbolized by the umbrella on the top. The whole stupa is strung with multi-colored prayer flags fluttering in the wind and releasing holy prayers.

Thimi
Thimi, a name derived from the world "Chhemi" meaning "Capable people", is well known for its colourful painted masks, dolls and terracotta works including delightful peacock and elephant flower pots, imaginatively moulded candle stands, ashtrays and many more. This village of Thimi lies on the old road to Bhaktapur from Kathmandu.